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Abalone has a reputation of being extremely tough and,
improperly handled or cooked, it can be similar to knawing on the sole of an
old shoe. But this result is easily avoidable in two steps. First, tenderize
the meat. Second, don't use liquids when cooking. If the goal of these two
steps is met, you're virtually guaranteed abalone tender enough to cut with the
side of a fork.
There are as many methods of tenderizing abalone as there
are recipes for cooking it. Everything from the tried and true methods to
running over the buttons with a car. Whatever works, I suppose. The two most
commonly used methods involve either tenderizing individual steaks or
tenderizing the whole abalone before slicing into steaks. Whichever method is
used, there is a "feel" that must be developed to avoid turning the meat into
mush. Both methods are described below.
Tenderizing each individual steak involves gentle pounding
with some form of mallet. A standard meat tenderizing mallet can be used
although numerous commercial and homemade alternatives are preferred. This is
because the standard meat mallet has serrated striking faces that tend to
overwork abalone meat. If a standard meat mallet is used, try striking the
abalone with the smooth side of the mallet. Regardless of what type of tool is
used, the key is to be patient and develop a feel for how the meat reacts to
pounding. Individual steaks are usually pretty tough. After a bit of gentle
pounding, you'll usually find the meat has "loosened" in spots. Continue
pounding gently until the entire steak is loose. Over pounding results in the
meat becoming mushy. How much pounding is enough and how much results in mush
is the "feel" involved in tenderizing an abalone. Developing this "feel" is
pretty easy when tenderizing individual steaks; each abalone offers a lot of
practice.
An alternative to tenderizing steak by steak is to tenderize
the entire meat before slicing. This is done during cleaning immediately on
removal of the button from the shell. The meat is wrapped in a towel and a
board or bat is used to pound it. Moving from popping the meat from the shell
to pounding is done quickly to minimize the time the animal is allowed to
tighten up during its death throes. The tighter the animal becomes during
cleaning and before pounding can start, the more pounding that's required. A
few quick strikes around the edges of the meat seem to arrest the tightening
process. A few more strikes and time can be taken to finish trimming the meat;
the animal will not tighten up any more. With the button completely trimmed,
the tenderizing process can be finished. Rewrap the meat in a towel and
continue with the pounding. As with the individual steaks, the key is patience
and a gentle but solid strike. You can feel the meat through the towel and, as
it loosens up, the change in feel is distinct. |