I have been asked many times if I came up with the idea for the AquaBaby. I can not take credit for putting a fish in a small container, only for improving the design. I have been raising fish for many years in small spaces, with and without expensive filtration systems. What is true for all the systems is: if the water is good, the fish are happy.

It is the intent of this manual to give the reader information supplemental to what is provided in the care instructions that came with their AquaBaby. Many people have taken an interest in various aspects of their little fish, and we hope to offer a greater explanation in the next few pages.

The environment of a fish is different from the environment of a terrestrial animal. The water that surrounds the fish is equivalent to our air, but the molecules are much more interactive than atmospheric gases. An aquatic environment is a small world in which all nutrients going in must be utilized and converted in ways that do not change the environment or make toxic compounds. To maintain a stable, healthy, aquatic environment, an elaborate interplay must exist between microorganisms, water chemistry, plants, and animals. Feed the fish and you feed the system as a whole; uneaten food, fish excretions and even the energy the fish uses to grow affect all other living things in the system. Nature simplifies this process in cycles. Nitrogen cycles, life cycles, chemistry cycles etc. whose end result is a balanced ecological system. An AquaBaby is a small aquatic environment, no different from a giant lake or a tiny pond. In order to function, it needs all the elements present in a natural environment--bacteria, water, living things, and air. We have attempted to give our "created" habitat the best possible start we could and have provided "caretaker" with enough information to keep the mini aquarium in balance.

At the time I am writing this, we have sold 250,000 of these little fish tanks with fish. The design remains the same, although we are constantly fine tuning both our information and our methods to better approximate a balanced system. We hope you find the following information useful. Should you require more information than provided, we will do our best to assist you.

WATER CHEMISTRY

On a molecular level, the chemistry within the water is continually interacting. There are many ways that we quantify and describe water. Some of these are:

1. pH (The balance of Hydrogen ions );
2. Hardness (the major chemicals and salts found in water which indicate how resistant it is to change and how many minerals there are);
3. Gas content, the most important element being the amount of oxygen; and
4. Temperature (the extremes of which may not permit fish or other organisms to live).

Each of these factors influences the others; I will attempt a simple introduction to show how this interaction occurs in an AquaBaby.

AquaBabies are considered fresh water fish (i.e. the salt and mineral content of the water is very low). The water starts out almost neutral in pH (which means the water is neither acidic nor alkaline). Fish excrete ammonia that tends to lower the pH and make the water acidic, while the plants take up carbon dioxide that raises the pH. Over time the water becomes depleted of minerals which helps keep it in balance and this is why we recommend a periodic water change. The lack of trace minerals in distilled water is the reason we recommend spring or natural water when replacing water in an AquaBaby.

Oxygen enters the water both through the surface and as a byproduct of aquatic plants and algae. The temperature controls the amount of oxygen the water can hold without it escaping as gas. The higher the temperature, the less oxygen the water is able to contain. The AquaBaby’s oxygen is like a bank account; oxygen is constantly added at the surface by plants, but high concentrations of fish (and at night the plants as well) can consume more oxygen than can be replaced passively. Oxygen is also necessary to favor mother nature’s cleaning staff bacterial action. Without enough oxygen, bacteria also die; organic wastes such as ammonia build up, and inevitably the fish die. To insure this does not happen, only a small number of fish are put in each tank.

There are chemical cycles in the water in which molecules are changed, exchanged, reduced to simpler compound, and released as gas. This is true for Nitrogen, which enters as fish feed, leaves, dead plant and other organic detritus. The nitrogen utilizing bacteria convert more complex forms of nitrogen such as ammonia and amino acids (proteins) to nitrate which the plant uses. In a natural system, areas of no oxygen (anaerobic conditions) allow a different type of bacteria to convert nitrate to nitrogen gas which rejoins the atmosphere. In a pond, this occurs in the sludge layers. In an AquaBaby any excess nitrate, not utilized by the plant, is slowly removed through water exchange.

We start our tanks with rock seeded with nitrifying bacteria. These bacteria convert the excess waste and food to a soluble form that the plant can use for growth. The bacterial action detoxifies the waste so that it does not kill the fish. We have tried numerous methods of adding bacteria but have found only the method we use to be successful. The plant adds some oxygenation. However, the vast majority of oxygen enters the water by diffusion at the surface. This is why the surface area is so large. A brand new tank would take approximately 6 weeks to establish the bacteria we have provided. This a principle reason a novice fish keeper has problems. The plants we have chosen are like the fish, hardy and suitable for the conditions in which we have placed them. The plants grow at low light levels and are an integral part of the system.

The temperature of most homes is typically between 60-80 degrees F is the temperature at which people are the most comfortable. The tropical fish we have chosen to raise for AquaBabies survive well in these ranges (more specifics about species preference in the section on Fish). However, extremes do happen and sometimes with deleterious effects to fish and plants. You may be on vacation when the power goes out or the air conditioner breaks. Fish and plants can survive extremes on occasion, but problems may result.

The complex medley on which I have only briefly touched is also impacted by external forces. Seasons, sunlight, temperature, and airborne pollutants all change the natural cycles within the water. The fish and plants are affected by weather variations outside. The amount and length of daylight will encourage the plant to grow or the fish to try to spawn. Subtle changes in the environment can happen without your knowing it. A cleaning disinfectant, for example, used by a janitorial service, can be absorbed into an AquaBabies water and harm the fish without the person who occupies the desk ever being aware of its occurrence. In addition, nicotine (from smoking) is quickly absorbed into water. When trouble shooting, it is important to consider what may have occurred when you were not around. Balance is the key.

As a final note, periodic water changes of at least 25% of the total tank per month are helpful to maintaining good water quality. Tanks need to be cleaned only for cosmetic reasons (seeing through the tank) and to remove excess debris (waste materials which accumulate over time). Fish are adversely affected by what is or is not in the water, not by how clean the tank may appear. A dirty tank can be a healthy environment if the water is changed regularly.

FISH

The fish that come in an AquaBaby are special. They have been selected for desirable characteristics and compatibility in normal room conditions. They were specially raised for use in AquaBabies and are young and healthy. These fish are domesticated and are never taken from the wild. Therefore, never release your fish to water outdoors. Fish are cold-blooded animals so they do not burn energy to keep themselves warm. Their activity level, appetite, and behavior are tied to water temperature. The colder the temperature the more the slowly the fish move. In warmer temperatures, the fish may move around more and interact more vigorously with each other. The fish in AquaBabies are considered tropical, primarily because they are not native to the United States and may come from warmer regions but will thrive at normal room temperatures (60-80 degrees F). Because of their small size, AquaBaby tanks can change temperature rapidly and should be protected from extremes. Do not place near a window or heater.

Fish breathe through their gills. Gills are similar in design to our lungs and are the most sensitive part of the fish that is exposed to the water. If the water quality is bad or contains chlorine, the gills are damaged and fail to exchange oxygen and other compounds properly and the fish dies. Soap is extremely lethal to gill tissue, and it important never to use soaps or detergents to clean an AquaBaby.

We have chosen compatible fish species that are relatively tolerant to a wide range of conditions such as those that would be found in an average home, work area, or store. The fish we use generally stay small, and customers often ask us if the fish will get too large for their tank. Some may; others may not. Some may take 6 months or more for any growth change to become visible. However, what most people do not realize is how large most "tropical" fish can get. I have algae eaters that are 18 inches long which are sold as 2" fish. An 18" fish may require a 100 gal. tank to allow it to properly maintain itself. Even goldfish will reach 2 lb. and 12" in size, and I would argue any goldfish bowl sold would be inadequate to hold a fish this size. What is more important is the "loading density" which refers to the amount of fish relative to the capacity of the water to support the amount of fish. I will discuss this further in the next section.

At first glance, the uninformed person might question whether the container is too small. If this were the case, the fish would die and this product would be an impossibility. Fish exist in their own environment, an environment that can not be compared directly to the environment of terrestrial animals, especially mammals. The AquaBaby tank is a complete ecosystem, like a biodome. Fish hatchery text books will note that the density of fish per unit of space is a function of the amount of dissolved oxygen available. For static testing, the EPA and CA Fish and Game recommend 1 gm of fish per liter for vessels containing no supplemental aeration. Using this formula and the size of fish we use, our stocking density could be as high as 10 very small fish per tank and allow for adequate oxygen. However, for the health of the fish and to keep the system balanced, we use a much lower loading rate. Since this density exceeds the government's suggestion for testing criteria, the container can not be judged inadequate on the basis of size. What is important is that there is a large surface area relative to the total water volume.

In nature, the greatest concern of a fish is eating and not being eaten. There are no predators in an AquaBaby so the main preoccupation of the fish is eating. In the wild, no one comes along with supplemental food and gives the fish a daily meal. Like their wild counterparts, the fish in AquaBabies are constantly picking on the plants and rocks, ingesting bacteria and microorganisms. They can easily live for 2 weeks or more without supplemental feed. Fish are cold-blooded animals, meaning that they do not maintain a body temperature different from their surroundings. This is a very efficient system. When the weather is cold, the metabolism of the fish slows down and their requirement for food is reduced. They do not expend any energy keeping themselves warm or cool which allows for most of their energy to go into growth or when they are adults into reproduction. Since it is to the system’s advantage to have a small amount of fish in the tank, we strongly encourage that the fish be fed sparingly to avoid water quality problems due to excess feed. A specially formulated feed for tropical fish is provided with each tank and is fresher than 90% of what is available to the hobbyist because our feed comes straight to us from the manufacturer. This means the feed provides more nutrition and is a potentially higher source of vitamins. Fish feed typically is 40-60% protein. We use a flake feed that has been finely ground as our standard diet.

There are a number of problems which can result in fish mortality. The scales that cover the body of the fish protect it. Infections can start at the site of an injury. This happens when another fish nips on a fish or a sharp object penetrates a fish. On occasion a weaker fish will waste away and die because it is more sensitive or it fails to compete with the others. Fish can die of old age; most of the fish we use would live to spawn only one or two seasons in nature (6 months-1 year) but may live much longer in an AquaBaby because of slow growth and small numbers. On an occasion there may be a disease brought on by some stress element but we try very hard to use only very healthy stock. Water quality can become a problem if the fish are grossly overfed or not ever cleaned. It is not necessary to keep a minimum number of fish in your AquaBaby but, much more important, is not to overstock it. As the fish grow, the demands on the system (cycle) are greater. If you find you have only one or two larger fish over time, that is plenty.

Fish do not experience loneliness as humans do. The main concern of a fish is safety in numbers. A predator will only consume a couple of fish in the school and leave the remainder to reproduce. Also there is a strong biological urge in all animals to procreate to ensure survival of the species. This means seeking a mate when the fish is mature. This is not the same as our desire for companionship. A fish spends most of its day staying out of the way of predators and finding food to eat. Breeding behaviors are lower on the list of priorities.

As mentioned above a fish’s activity is dependent on water temperature. It is also influenced by a fish’s behavior. Some fish are naturally more active than others. Some are more aggressive or territorial, and some prefer different parts of the tank. Typically an AquaBaby will contain at least two different species of fish and sometimes even three. Following is a description of some of the types of fish we use. I have found that AquaBaby owners become fascinated with their new pets and are interested in spawning them. It is rare that both sexes will be present in an AquaBaby, and the space is too small to conduct a successful breeding program. We recommend a larger tank--10 or more gallons--and some good books if you want to breed fish. The AquaBaby was designed to be simple to care for and largely problem free. This system is not for maximizing growth or reproduction. We would, however, like to encourage anyone seeking a wider experience with fish to move up to a larger system and pursue this interest.

FROGS

In some parts of the country and during certain seasons you may find you have purchased an AquaBaby with a Dwarf African Clawed Frog, Hymenochirpus curtipes. The frog, like the fish, was born on a farm and should not be released into the wild. The frog's forefathers came from the rain forests of Western Africa, are completely aquatic (no hopping around on land, no sitting out on a rock) and grow to a maximum size about 2 inches. It is important to keep them warm (60-85 F) and leave an airspace between the lid and top of the water so they may breath. Frogs have gills only as tadpoles and once mature breathe from the surface. Occasionally (two hours or less) your frog will swim to the surface to fill its lungs with air. Frogs shed their skin, making them look mossy during the process. A discarded skin at the bottom of the tank will become part of the food chain and does not need to be removed. Frogs are like fish and should never be removed from the water and handled. If you want to learn more about frogs there is an excellent Web site called Frogland For an excellent frog informational web site see www.allaboutfrogs.org (formerly http://www.teleport.com/~dstroy).

Feeding

Frogs will require more regular feeding than do fish. If your frog seems to be getting smaller, increase the number of pellets. It is OK to feed them daily or every other day but it is not good to leave them more than an occasional week without food. Unlike most frog species which have vegetarian tadpoles, this frog’s tadpoles are actually carnivorous and eat small bugs. These frogs do not have keen eye sight and therefore rely on a sense of smell to locate their food. They are also bottom feeders and it may take a little while for your frog to find the pellet. Frog feed differs slightly from the fish food in an AquaBaby and they will eat both. Frog feed is designed to sink and have ingredients attractive to the frogs. Uneaten frog feed will decay more rapidly than fish feed.

African Dwarf frogs are tongueless and ingest their food by using suction to slurp up their feed. This creates a darting action and is very distinctive. Treats, such as live or frozen brine shrimp or tubifex worms, can be purchased at a local pet store but be very cautious to feed only tiny amounts to avoid polluting their home. What you purchase can be frozen, used at later times and will probably be enough to last for many months.

Although not fish eaters by nature, these frogs are somewhat indiscriminate about what they ingest. On occasion they may try to eat (sometimes successfully) the fish thinking it is an aquatic insect or worm. Fish, particularly more active fish such as Danios and Tiger Barbs, will try to eat the limbs of the frog, mistaking them for an aquatic insect or worm as well. In addition, fish are more adapt at eating the feed than the frogs, even with sinking pellets, may consume everything once fed. For these reasons, we strongly suggest keeping either fish or frogs in your AquaBaby - not both. If you have a tank with a frog and a fish, be certain to give your frog a place to hide (a couple pebbles that make a cave will do nicely). If you find one or the other being an aggressor, it will be necessary to separate them.

Additional Care

It is important to keep an AquaBaby with a frog warm (above 65 degrees F) and it may be necessary to clean their tanks more frequently. Clean the tank in the same manner as you would the fish but be careful not to let the frog climb out of his holding container during the process of cleaning. A frog out of water will not live very long.

It always seems of interest to know whether your frog is male or female. The females tend to be light gray in color and will get larger than the male. The males are darker and appear to have a rougher appearance. The males also may make a low humming noise as a mating call. They have an interesting mating behavior and if you find yourself intrigued I would recommend getting a slightly larger aquarium (1-2 gallons) and maintaining a pair.

A male frog will clasp a female about the abdomen and ride piggyback for several hours. He is attempting to get her to squeeze out her eggs so that he can fertilize them. The eggs, usually between 20 and 100, float at the surface and settle eventually to the bottom. The eggs resemble frog feed and are small dark colored surround by a clear jelly and spherical in shape. If either the eggs or adults are not removed, the parents will quickly eat the eggs once they are laid. The eggs hatch in about 4-5 days and the tadpoles resemble tiny fish larvae. They must be fed a live feed daily (Artemia nauplii) for the first couple weeks and become begin to develop legs after about a month. Within six weeks they resemble small adult frogs and take up a benthic life.

FIDDLER CRABS

Crabs are a member of the phylum, Arthropoda. Arthropods are than divided into two groups: the Crustaceans (to which shrimp, lobsters, crabs and barnacles belong) and Insecta (you guessed, the insects). Crustaceans are characterized by an exoskeleton (shell) to which all their muscles attach. It presents some very different challenges when you wear your skeleton on the outside of your body. The greatest feat is growth, called molting, because a crustacean has to entirely shed its skeleton to accomplish this. Often what is left behind can easily be mistaken for the animal itself. It is like needing to get a larger set of clothing when the ones you have are too small. Crabs first reabsorb much of the minerals in the old shell and swell with water causing the old shell to burst. They then back out of their old shell, leaving behind a perfect, empty copy of their former self. At first glance you might think your crab has died or you have somehow gotten two crabs. Upon closer examination you will find the shell is empty. It can just be left in the tank for the crab to eventually eat. After molting, a crab's shell is soft and takes several days to harden (during this time your crab may spend more time hiding because in nature it would be a delectable dish for others). Because these crabs come from areas where waters sometimes contain salt, it is important to keep a seashell or two in the tank and never use distilled water. They need a source of calcium and minerals for their shells and well being.

These little crabs belong to the genus Uca minax and are found in freshwater in Florida but in nature migrate from fresh to salt water. Their shell helps out here by preventing them from gaining water when in fresh water or losing water in seawater. The shell limits the amount of water, which can be lost or gained because it is rigid. Their nickname, Fiddler, comes from the one larger claw of the males, which is said to resemble a violin. This large claw is only used to attract females during courting. The males wave them in the air in an interesting display but in day-to-day life they are essentially useless. Females have two smaller claws. There are many species of Fiddler crabs, which live on beaches, mudflats and marshes across the coastal regions of North America.

Fiddler crabs use their small claws to grasp food particles and bits of plant. They are continually "picking" along the bottom and objects looking for tiny food morsels. These claws are actually modified walking legs, as are their mouthparts. Crabs are very messy eaters and may require frequent cleaning because they shred their food before ingesting it. They have gills that work in the air as well as the water as long as they remain wet. Unlike a fish, water passes by the gills and they get their oxygen by setting up a small current of water in their "mouth". This method of getting oxygen makes them more sensitive to "dirty water". Keep your crab's water clean. If it smells foul, it is probably a good indication that you should replace at least fifty percent of the water. Your little crab enjoys perching itself near the waters edge and can often be found above the water line (allow your plant to float or keep a large decoration in the tank so they can get above the surface). It is advisable to keep your water level down an inch so they can reach the water's surface.. Never leave the lid off because these crabs are excellent escape artists and are amazingly fast.

Feeding should be done sparingly 2-3 times per week. As with any aquatic animal in a small container, be careful not to overfeed them and pollute their homes. Feed only one or two pellets at a time. Crabs are not picky eaters and will eat a variety of fish foods, just be careful not to overfeed. Your little crabs will eat most anything they can catch, so it is not recommended to keep either snails or fish with your little crabs. We also suggest using a larger tank for keeping more than one at a time. If you find it is necessary to move your crab such as when cleaning the tank, you can gently hold them in a closed hand to move them from container to container; they rarely pinch. They can and will crawl quickly out of a net and escape.

Crab behavior will vary from very active to very inactive so do not become alarmed if your crab displays either extreme. In order to avoid playing grab the crab, the lid should remain on at all times. Fiddler crabs in nature have a 1-11/2 year lifespan. Your fiddler crab may be anywhere from 3-8 months of age when you get them. Death is a natural occurrence of all living things.

PLANTS

Most of the oxygen in the tank comes from the air and not the plant. The plant does give off oxygen during the day but more importantly it uses the fish waste as fertilizer. Your plant is used to living in low light conditions, but some light is necessary. If your tank is in a dark corner, it may not get enough light, but if placed in a window, the water will need to be changed more often because the algae will grow. Aquatic plants are vigorous growers and may need an occasional trim. Pinch off and discard excess growth.

The plants in an AquaBaby grow below the water surface and get their nutrients primarily from the water rather than from a root system. Under normal outdoor conditions, sunlight becomes quickly absorbed in pond water. For this reason, the submerged plants are used to living under lower light levels than that of terrestrial or even other water plants. Diffused light through a window or fluorescent lights is usually adequate to maintain them. Plants use nitrogen in the form of ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite as fertilizer that is provided as a breakdown product of the fish’s metabolism and bacterial breakdown of waste products. The uptake of these chemicals is the primary function of plants in an AquaBaby.

Plants also take up carbon dioxide and give off oxygen during the day through photosynthesis. At night however, plants use oxygen but this amount is less than the oxygen produced. As mentioned above, most of the oxygen comes from the surface of the tank so that while during the day the plants help, the survival of a fish is not dependent upon the plants. Often the plant may wane and die and has caused many a concerned AquaBaby owner to call us for help. The plant is helpful but not essential to the fish’s survival.

One of the most common reasons that plants die is that they become coated with bacteria and smother. The bacteria in the tank are only visible as a brown film and with regular cleaning will coat only the rocks. Over time they will try to colonize any surface area possible and cover the tank walls and plant. Sometimes abrupt water changes will cause a plant to go into shock, lose its leaves and die. Even in an AquaBaby plants experiences seasons and go through changes.

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum) is the most commonly used variety of plant although you may find Anacharis in the AquaBabies. These are common plants readily available at most tropical fish stores (Cabomba, Anacharis and Banana plant can also be used). Certain times of the year the plant growth may actually choke the available space in an AquaBaby and should be trimmed back. Always keep the growing tip and discard the ends. This will allow the plant to continue to grow and use nutrient.

Another plant that may invade your AquaBaby is algae. Algae are microscopic single celled plants that may turn the water green or adhere to the sides of the tank. Algae grows in response to high light and nutrient levels. While not harmful to the fish, algae can make a tank unsightly and should be prevented. Tanks should not be kept in direct sunlight and if the problem persists a weekly water replacement of 50% will help to eliminate excess nutrients.

SNAILS

Some tanks will contain one or more snails. Snails are gastropod mollusks and are characterized by soft bodies and shells. They generally eat debris, bacteria, algae and plants by scraping the surfaces with a tooth-like structure in their mouth called a radula. They will even eat a dead fish and left over fish food if given the opportunity. They eat ravenously and also create a large amount of waste. Most but not all snails are hermaphroditic (means they either exist as one sex and later change or they change sex from male to female as they age). This different approach to sex allows them to be reproductive at a very small size and predisposes them to overpopulation. One snail can lay several jelly like egg masses a week which can quickly fill up a tank with baby snail.

Snails can be both an advantage and disadvantage to the AquaBaby ecosystem. They will clean up any excess food and they will assist keeping the tank walls clean by eating algae and any excess fish food. As they grow larger the snail may start eating the plants. They also lay eggs that should be removed or your fish tank will become a snail nursery. Snails make a lot of waste and add considerably to the debris in the tank.

The common types of snails used in your AquaBaby are as follows:

• Ramshorn (Helisoma): As the name implies the shell is flat and spiraled. These snails are less interested in the plants than pond snails and grow to be almost 1/2 inch in size.
• Pond Snails (Physa): Full grown snails are small (less than 1/2 inch in size) and are prolific reproducers. Their shells are conical and they will eat the plants sometimes in preference to algae on the sides of the tank.
• Nerite Snails These little snails have a hard shell with a small trap door called operculum which allows the snails to exist for a time out of water. These snails have very hard round shells. They lay only a few eggs which resemble miniature barnacles. After a large meal, Nerite snails may remain motionless for up to a week at a time. They also have difficulty righting themselves when turned upside down and may need a little help. You may also notice your snail rarely moving during the day and this may be another behavior to avoid predation. Sometimes Aquatic Frogs will also prey on the snail in their tank and it will not be possible to keep the two together.

Aquatic snails are affected by water quality but are influenced by different elements than the fish. They do best when there is a higher mineral content in the water since they require calcium for their shells Distilled water is definitely not good for snails. They are also have a higher sensitivity (than the fish) to selected metals in the water and some of these are copper, lead and zinc which are materials that are commonly found in metal plumbing.

Snail behavior is not too fascinating. Sometimes they can glide on a mucus strand along the surface of the water or may seem to sit still for long periods. Small snails are preyed on by some species of fish and will come to rest on the lid to avoid being disturbed. When touched they drop suddenly to the bottom of the tank.

FEEDING

The best method to feed is to wet the tip of a toothpick or unfolded paper clip and dip the tip (¼" maximum) into the food bag and then into the tank through the hole in the top. Your fish need very little food to sustain them. They can be fed daily or every other day and can easily be left for a weekend without food. You will know that your are over-feeding if the water gets cloudy or you see food floating around more than five or ten minutes. If you overfeed consistently, you will need to change the water more often or your fish and plants may die. Fish always look hungry. The food we use comes directly from the manufacturer and is very fresh. It contains a high protein and low fat content. It is possible to replace the feed with a regular tropical fish flake feed (from a pet store) and grind it to the appropriate size before feeding.

CLEANING

The tank only needs to be cleaned when the water becomes cloudy and/or there is debris covering the rocks, plants or tank. First remove the plant and set aside, then carefully pour the water into a bowl, using a cup to catch the water with the fish. Once the fish are gone, discard the rest of the water, being careful to save the rocks. Rinse the rocks with the spring water until clean and use a paper towel to gently wipe down the sides to remove any algae. Add some new water and the cleaned rocks; anchor the plant end under some rocks. Try to spoon out most of the old water around the fish in the cup before adding them back into the aquarium. As the water evaporates between cleaning periods, add bottled water.

Now that you have named your fish and know which one is which, you are especially concerned about their health and welfare. There are a few additional things you can do to insure success.

1. Change 25% of the water every two weeks. This is an additional security so that when it finally becomes necessary to clean the tank, water conditions will not be drastically different and stress the fish. Water exchanges will help hold the pH steady and insure no accumulation of micronutrients that are not used by the fish, plant or bacteria will occur.
2. Feed fish either ever other day or daily small amounts. This will encourage them to grow faster but more important will give them larger reserves for when they need to left a week without feed (vacation) or if you have them at an office and are routinely not unable to feed them on weekends.
3. If fish appear aggressive toward one another or there is a bully present, use a few rocks to create a hiding place for the more passive or smaller fish. Fish are very visual and out of sight out of mind.
4. Keep in a location which has an even temperature. Location will play a large role in the health of the fish and frequency of tank maintenance. All aquatic life, while adapted to changes in temperature, is happiest when conditions are consistent.
5. Keep a snail, but only one or two. Snails will help maintain the cleanliness of tank but too many will keep the tank out of balance, they might consume the plant and overpopulate.
6. Remove any fish which becomes injured or sick. You can give them a separate space, such as a cup, if disposing of them before they have expired is distasteful. They may recover, but it is safer and kinder to isolate them.
7. Never use a harsh abrasive surface to clean your fish tank. If it impossible to gently remove the algae or bacteria on the walls gently, give the fish temporary quarters in a clean jar or vase and the completely empty tank can be lightly chlorinated with household bleach. It will take only ½ teaspoon of bleach in a empty tank that has been filled with water (tap water is fine in this case). Let the mixture sit for 5 minutes or until it appears crystal clear. Pour out the water and rinse 5 or 6 times. Then completely dry the tank. Rinse once or twice with bottled water and the tank can than be reassembled. A word of caution - Chlorine can adhere to your hands and be transferred to the tank as you are putting the aquarium together again. Be sure you do not detect any chlorine odor before adding any fish to the tank. CHLORINE AND SOAPS ARE POTENT POISONS FOR AQUATIC LIFE.
8. Use only bottled spring water at room temperature for your aquarium. The chlorine in tap water will kill the AquaBabies and the bacteria on the rocks!

Finally, if you still find yourself with a troubling question or something you need more help with you can always write or e-mail us at AquaBabies. Enjoy!!!