#2: journals by Ric Carter (himself) & Maureen O'Connell (herself)
Sat 31 March (S. Beniamina), on to Naples.
NAPOLI: The National Archaeological Museum is world-class but noisy and inconstant. Its contents (those that aren't out for restoration or loan) are transfixing, especially the Pompeii mosaics and other artifacts. I have looked upon the face of Alexander. I have fondled Venus' nice butt. I have proposed to the tour guide, and been rejected. I'll never sing again.
Downtown Naples is vibrant and not nearly as frightening as has been described. Away from the crackerjack cheapshit apartment blocks in the suburbs, the city feel a lot like San Francisco, twisted a bit. Definitely worth further exploration.
The tour bus stopped on a hillcrest for a touristic photo opportunity, the urban splendor layed out before our eager lenses. Also eager was the old paisan' in the nice sweater who insisted that I needed a quality watch. I indicated my preference for digital stuff, not Xolex knock-offs. Somewhere along the line we embraced, each indicating a desire to throw the other over the wall, to plummit down upon the city below. Always excitement and romance in Napoli, eh? That's amore...
MINORI: What was that mystery meal the hotel served for dinner?
Sat 03-31-01
Went to Napoli today. The guide book warnings of pickpockets and crime seem to have been exaggerated. All seemed perfectly normal and safe at the Archaeological Museum and then at Piazza Plebiscito. The city we saw was not tidy except in the upscale areas. The buildings could have been any old European city where balconies are the norm.
It was Sat. shopping at the fine shops, everyone at the museum. We walked through Galleria Umberto, it was buzzing w/ Italians.
We may return on our own to look around. The trip took all day but except for a couple of drive-by viewings and one bus-out for a cliff-top look at Vesuvio we were only 2 1/2 hours on the streets. Not nearly enough. Saw Spaccanapoli from the bus. Funky, but not a ghetto.
[The Museum:] Mosaics, silver chalices, cameos, glass from Pompeii, exquisite! Also Roman & Greek statues, absolutely awesome.
Great fun at dinner w/ table mates Anne & Frank from Norfolk. Very independent and irreverent like us although about 10-15 yrs senior.
Don't ever take lunch with the group on a day tour. They go to crowded, noisy, poor-value tourist places! $22 for both of us, one glass red wine, thin crust tomato & cheese spots pizza, & deep fried rice, fish & zucchini. Blah!
At a newsstand in the shop district near Piazza Plebiscito we saw in Italian, the headline that Milosevic had been arrested! Bravo! I said "glad they got the bum". A man in a very nice suit next to me said something in Italian to the effect that sentiment is the same in Italy. Small world, isn't it?
Sun 1 April (V Quares), not fooled again
Nobody put a fish in my pocket, which a guidebook sez is a tradition. Maybe they don't do that to tourists here
POMPEII: Today, Pompeii (Scavi Pompei, say the road signs). Spectacular. Glorious. Huge. Images are required tell the story. [ POMPEII PHOTOS: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 -- from PlanetWare ]
But those images won't tell the story of the throngs of multinational tourists and floods of schoolkids surging within the old town walls, nor of the equal swarms of vendors just outside these walls. Juices and foods, yes, and many excellent illustrated guidebooks in many languages, and vast piles of tacky bric-a-brac: 2D and 3D renderings of ancient and newish erotic imagery (THE PRICKS OF POMPEII, multisexual statues with nice butts, etc); and lava-rock figurines of humans and animals and structures, spray-painted black with speckly gold outlines, like hard-edged Velvet Elvis art; and tonnes of cheap cameos, coral strands, chines bead necklaces ala Pompeii; and plaster recreations of ancient faces, real and mythic; and various makes / models / sizes of CAVE CANEM (Beware Of The Dog) tiles and ashtrays and trivets. And more and more. And the vendors are insistent and multilingual, persistent and omnipresent. But why isn't anyone selling hashish here? Or maybe they are.
(See my notes on Pompeii And Other Destroyed Cities)
MINORI: Back in Minori, I try an experiment. I've noticed that the townspeople almost never appear in public without wearing a jacket or overcoat, so I pull on a black pullover windbreaker and join the strollers in the evening promenade. It seems to work — I notice a sharp drop in the stares and eye-avoidance that marks their response to the tourist / outsider. A few folk nodded to me as though I were just another countryman (albeit maybe a tall damn northerner) out taking the air and maintaining the traditions.
Allesandra, the pert tour guide who spurned me so cruelly two days ago, noted my resemblance to a Northern Italian who is on television regularly, talking about - what? meteorology, or geography, or horticulture, or something like that, I forget. Maybe some locals mistake me for this sub-celebrity, slumming in their burg. Or maybe not.
Songs:
TOWERS
SOME HOT LOVE
Sunday [April 1]
Excursion to Pompeii today. Thrilled by the size and beauty of the location. Buildings w/ frescoes and mosaics restored give a glimpse of the city's great beauty.
An older man, Italian school teacher with class in tow, remarked that our
group of Brits English and Americans was a strange combination. Not
so, remarked an elderly English lady next to me. She said that without
American help and loans after the II WW that [they] would have starved.
"Times were very bad then."
How interesting to hear the revolutionary point of view from an educated Italian and the end-of-WWII view from our English companion.
This traveling really opens my mind to history and points of view.
Group lunch was good today. A tourist place but tables for four with plenty of room between. Good food too, and less noise when the musicians and singers were not upon us.
Got some excellent books about Pompeii & Herculaneum. One has foils with artist completions to overlay photos of the ruins.
Vendors all over the gates into the city. Pushing for sales of mostly junk. We bought one book.
Went to cameo shop where we got a 60 sec explanation of how it's done, then herded into sales room. I was not tempted. Mom game me one that was Lulu's and much more artistic than what we saw. Prices were high, $100 American for a small ring. No deals here. & no great art either. Oh well, there will be other goodies to take home.
Looking forward to a day without a tour tomorrow.
Dining w/ Frank & Anne, again a joy. I love his sense of humor and way of story telling. Trained dog found him his keys — Rottweillor in obedience class, paws on shoulder and full face slurp. Ha.
Mon 2 April 2001 (S. Franc. do P.), en hotel.
AMALFI: Bus to Amalfi, stomp around for hours, have some "special fish" inflicted upon us (head & tail & scales & bones intact, price doubled) then walk over the hills to magickal Atrani and back. Espresso in a near-deserted square, a cat who wouldn't cooperate with his mistress to be photographed, a bewildering maze of walkways tunneling through cliff-hanging towns, stunning vistas and yet more churches scattered about everywhere, a grand cathedral we were ejected from summarily, that was the day.
And the night: after a disorganized dinner (funny how things fall apart when the wine steward takes a day off) we're subjected to an excruciating multilingual program on pasta making (the hotel's 'managing director' barking descriptions which our tourmaster Jenny tries humorously to translate whilst a fat old woman mechanically hand-fashions dough into traditional shapes), followed by some ravishing lemon chocolates made 100 metres from here (presented by the confectioner himself), topped with inescapable accordion music (which insistently forces its way through our closed balcony window after we've made our escape). The pain and pleasure principles intertwine.
Explanatory note: We're here on a package from Saga Tours, a UK outfit catering to post-50 Anglo-Americans out to see the world at reasonable rates. Airfare from San Francisco, three weeks in this very pleasant hotel with less-than-exciting breakfasts and dinners, occasional 'entertainments', all for US$100 per day. Excursions with local guides are optional and not terribly expensive, usually. Tons of free time and advice, grab your own lunch, buy your own wine, etc. A very good deal, but sometime disconcerting — this is our first such adventure.
Monday [April 2]
Day alone [together] in Amalfi & Atrani. SITA bus to Amalfi — shops — then Cathedral though rudely rushed out at noon. 12th cent. part w/ garden & Moorish arches & partially restored frescoes — beautiful.
Hiked to Atrani along the city sala's [passages]. Up lava steps & down, and up and around through tunnels with houses built over & doorways leading off. A real workout. Could have been used for a movie set in N. Africa, with the removal of the shrines to Madonna and saints which pop up here and there.
We saw two houses with bottles of water on the steps which are supposed to keep the cats from peeing there and also avert evil spirits and the evil eye.
Nice lunch, but expensive at a little bistro in a small piazza away from the Duomo. As others arrived and asked for sunny tables the wait guys just moved the potted cedar trees and carried the tables over diners' heads from shade to sun.
Refreshed ourselves with espresso in the main piazza in Atrani, then with gelato on our return to Amalfi. Excellent!
Cute cat in the Atrani square. Girl there told us it was her cat. She was trying to take his photo on the fountain but he was too busy playing to cooperate. They walked away, cat paws-up in her arms. Very sweet!
Streets in Atrani are up or down, sections, vaulted passages that fork in several directions. The names are written on the wall and would be useful if we had a map. At least the book that Ric hiked to Ravello for got us going at the right street and along the critical junctions.
Tues 3 April 2001 (S. Ricardo), unguided
TOURING: More old stuff. Tour of Ercolano, Oplantis, the Vesuvio suburbs of Napoli. OK, OK the drive and driver (Aldo) were great, the ruins were stunning, the lunch was good, only one companion was intolerable, and the air was only slightly carcinogenic. But we had a good time. See the pictures. When they're available.
Some details: our original Herculanium trip fell through, so Jenny the SAGA representative organized alternative transport but no guide. A small minibus (with a driver sharing profiles with John Travolta) took off with a small crowd; we chatted our way up Maiori and Tramonti, across the top of the Montii Lattari again, down through Angri and Pompei, over to Ercolano and the digs.
ERCOLANO: Herculanium (Scavi Ercolano) is much smaller than Pompeii (Scavi Pompei) but better preserved and less hucksterized, although deeper into the Neapolitan conurbation. A two-hour runthru IS sufficient for surveying most of the glories, or would be if ravening mobs of screaming schoolkids weren't swarming about. The overall effect is wondrous, and the thermal baths under the city (Thermae Suburbanae) are especially awe-inspiring. Wish we could have stayed longer.
Aldo had directed that we lunch at the BAR DEGLI AMORINI across from the entrance to the digs, which is also the only guidebook-recommended local eatery, and it was as described: unassuming outside, spacious and gracious and pleasant inside. The food was good enough, the cold red wine was homemade and unfiltered and tasty, the bill was reasonable. I'm happy.
OPLONTIS: Aldo then took us to the Scavi Oplantis, an ancient ruin that may have been the country / seaside villa of Emperor Nero's second wife Poppea. This is a huge home (as befits an empress) with stupendous frescoes and gardens and intriguing architecture. Zowie.
(See my notes on Pompeii And Other Destroyed Cities)
Driving back over the hills, a good conversation with Aldo whilst soaking in all the smoggy sights; and a gelato on Minori's promenade ended a fine day's trip. But that nasty old New Orleans hag who suggested that Jake's motley muttly litter should have been destroyed, well, let's do the same for humans; and since most NOLAns are of mixed blood, she's first. Take THAT, you scag.
GALA FEED: Dinner: the weekly SAGA dinner to send off those whose vacations have expired. A little free wind, a little odd food, a lot of overly-loud live Italianate music (or a careful simulation thereof). Afterward, we stroll with sly Frank and taut Ann to sip brandy and gossip about families, out in the windblown night, and then we send them back to Britain. Or maybe that's tomorrow. Whatever.
Tuesday [April 3]
John Travolta drove us to Herculaneum today. Well, Aldo could have been his cousin, same profile. Very simpatico fellow — home in the cliff S. of Minori. Makes limoncello from his orchard for his family and friends. Also does auto repair in generate income for three sons and a wife.
We had 2 hrs. to see Herculaneum. Different from Pompeii — smaller & Samnite architecture. Too many high-voiced little children but otherwise interesting. Suburban baths were absolutely fabulous in scale, plan and decoration. The very best part.
Lunch in Herculaneum right outside the old city site. Nice deserted restaurant except for the 7 of us and 2 local men.
Also stopped at [Oplontis] on the way back to the coast. This, the very best for extent, content and decoration. The frescoes were brilliant in color, composition and execution. And only the 7 of us, well 6 of us, the cranky old 'lady' American stayed behind.
Over the 'Tramonti' road from Angri to Maiori. Yacked along the way with Also and Jean from S. west England about the differences between Italy, England and California in taxes, petrol costs, road & auto taxes, types of local commerce. Italian income tax for Aldo is 60%. Medical is included on a sliding scale according to income. As many "under the table" transactions as possible are done to avoid the tax. Roads are by fee too. From Minori to Milano costs 100,000 lira or $50 U.S. dollars.
Had a brandy in the square with Anne & Frank after dinner. They leave in the morning so will have new table mates tomorrow night. Anne & Frank love Tom Lehrer songs. Small world.
Wed 4 April 2001 (S. Isidoro), hillblown.
TOWARD SANTA NICOLA: A limited day. After a late, insubstantial breakfast, Maureen returned abed and I climbed random walkways and paths into the hills above this coast between Minori and Maiori, past the lemons and olives and willows up into a high pine tree zone, where I trudged upward as far as I could and then surrendered to gravity and fatigue.
I descended into Maiori past in-the-wall cactus gardens, past a skateboard far from any rollable surface, past stumbling ponies and peasants burning lemontree litter. The flatlands of Maiori held no excitement sufficient to counter my exhaustion, so I stumbled the coast road back to Minori and hotel.
MINORI: A great pizza lunch on Minori's shorefront (DO patronize the Altamerea), a snoop and snooze at the solarium atop our Hotel Villa Romana, a late afternoon exploration of more hillside walkways and back-alley shops, a tolerable dinner that welcomed the latest batch of SAGA newbies, etc.
Seen from that rooftop solarium: other roofs festooned with laundry; a sector of the sea; kittens in a poolside walkway, jousting; a nun bustling around children's toys in an empty school; black sensuous underwear hanging to dry from a window; debris fires burning on the hillsides; the ever-higher estates of Ravello. And all the rest.
Wed [April 4]
Very lazy & tired today. I slept or tried to while Ric hiked. Then on his return at 1 pm we went to a seaside cafe & had excellent wine, pizza & salad for $20 U.S. Spent the afternoon on the roof reading & napping in lounge chairs. Munched cookies from the bakery across from Hotel. Then at 5 changed and wandered around Minori poking into shops. Bought 'pomodoro' seeds for us & tenants.
Alone [together] at dinner tonight, nice break from chit-chat. Early to bed, early to rise, for best of breakfast, then whatever we choose.
I really needed this day of rest. Banged my head twice on Herculaneum stone doorways yesterday and on the bus backdoor top two days before. No concussion, but sore.
Wandered into a new piazza after lunch looking for a mosaic gallery and found school boys playing hide and seek while granny watched from the 2nd story window. Waves and smiles to and from all.
Later saw the boys cycling up the street, they said 'good morning', seems almost everyone here has a very little bit of English. We get along OK.
