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2/20/2003 |
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Puerto Lempira - La Ceiba - Coxen Hole - West End
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We had a 7AM flight out of Puerto Lempira but we knew it
wouldn't be leaving before the plane arrived in Puerto Lempira. We checked in
at the airport to get our boarding passes and drop off the luggage. Then we
headed off to do a few errands while listening for our plane to arrive.
The main errand was to deliver the diver back to
the care of Dr. Fitzpatrick. Unfortunately, the doctor didn't arrive at the
hospital by the time we were forced to leave at 7:15AM. So we left a note with
the diver, along with some collected cash for living expenses, and headed back
to the airport terminal. At the time of this writing, I'm trying to get back in
contact with Dr. Fitzpatrick to learn what happened to the diver. |
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The flight out of Puerto Lempira takes us to La Ceiba where
we're planning to catch a ferry to .jpg) Roatan Island, our Central American departure point on
Sunday. The flight follows the coast of Honduras as it changes from the savanna
plains near Puerto Lempira, passes over the rain forest surrounding the Rio
Platano and follows the coastal mountains into La Ceiba.
La Ceiba is a sudden return to bustling humanity with Pizza
Huts and Wendy's near the downtown plaza. Almost without delay, Bob decides
he'd rather fly to Roatan and get on with the expose' work he's hoping to
accomplish in the next few days. I'd been looking forward to the ferry ride and
decide to stick with that plan. We'll meet in West End on Roatan that
evening.
With a few hours to spend before the ferry leaves, Juan and
I hang around the courtyard of a hotel to rest and have something to eat.
Sitting at the next table is Cheryl
Schraeder, President and Project Director for
International Health Service. Juan
recognizes her having met in the same place one year ago. Being his typically
shy self, he's soon talking to her and pulling her away from her companions to
join us at our table. This is where I learn about the community development and
care teams IHS sends out to remote locations in Honduras; this year's group
includes a Dr. Tim Fitzgerald working in Puerto Lempira. The coincidence of
running into Cheryl is almost as fascinating as the work of IHS. I highly
recommend checking into their efforts and helping as you are able. The teams
they send out tend to focus on dental and eye care though some of the larger
communities (like Puerto Lempira) have doctors among the team.
The Galaxy ferry to Roatan leaves from a port outside of La
Ceiba. We got there early enough to spend some time checking out the commercial
section of the port. There, we found only one lobster diving boat; with the
Honduran season soon closing for five months, every other boat was out.
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The Galaxy was a very comfortable ferry (air conditions,
playing an English version of Zorro on the cabin TVs, main deck entirely
enclosed and very fast) taking less than 2 hours to make a crossing that was
much rougher and wilder than I'd expected. Quite a few passengers did NOT enjoy
that ride. |
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Coxen Hole, Roatan, Honduras |
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Off the Galaxy on arrival in Coxen Hole, Roatan's main urban
center, the challenge was collecting luggage. The process was a zoo with
passengers (there were a lot of them) crowding a picket fence while bags were
dumped on the ground on the other side. Getting your bag was a process of
getting a porter's attention and trading your baggage stub for the bag.
Coxen Hole is described, in the guide books, an unpleasant
town and a place to move through as quickly as possible. That's probably a
reasonable description for newly arriving tourists. I found it to be a fairly
typical Central American town with very typical bustle, noise and squalor.
YMMV.
In pursuit of saving every last nickel and dime, Juan led me
to a minivan that serves as a Roatan bus. With luggage piled, literally, on top
of us, every seat taken (sometimes two to a seat) and jammed with school kids,
we head off to West End. |
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West End, Roatan, Honduras |
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Thirty minutes ride (with numerous stops along the way)
brought us to Roatan's West End, a sleepy, laid back tourist destination with
more dive shops per square foot than any place I've
seen or heard of. West End will be our base of operations for
the last few days of the trip. Bob's agenda is to tied a bow in the trail of
Central America's lobster exports to the United State. My agenda was to get in
a few dives in this popular dive location.
Juan and I
checked into a shared room at the Pura Vida hotel, an Italian-owned, very
comfortable hotel/pizza restaurant/PADI dive store located, as are most things
in West End, right on the water.
I mostly enjoyed West End. It's a gather place for mostly
young, world travelers: more Europeans than Americans. The pace is very laid
back. You can get cheap accomodations ($5/night for a bunk in a dorm at
Valeries) or, like we did, pay tourist rates for a comfortable and clean hotel
room. We lucked out with our accomodations because West End was pretty full up.
The thing I didn't enjoy was the sudden return to tourist prices: hotel, food
and everything else suddenly double, tripled or more in cost. |
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